June 4, 2014

ON THE ROAD: SAN FRANCISCO TO NAPA VALLEY

Words & Photography by lindsbanban 


This year my Dad turned a very special age. To celebrate, he decided he was going to take each of his children on a very special, once in a lifetime trip. Without hesitation, I was all in when he suggested a week long journey traversing California's Pacific Coast Highway aka Highway 1. First Stop: San Francisco

DAY 1:  To kick off my adventure I watched The Secret Life of Walter Mitty on the plane. This inspiring story of getting yourself out of a rut - recognizing that there is so much more out there – then, actually getting up and seizing it was a breath of fresh air. Whether you’re finding yourself, or re-discovering yourself, travelling opens your eyes to the unknown, it shows you what you are made of, or perhaps,  reminds you. I can't think of a better way to have started this adventure with my dad. To top it off the soundtrack is incredible, LISTEN WHILE YOU READ:



On our first full day in San Francisco we wander through The Mission, and get a feel for the city. When we find La Taqueria for cheap tacos, nachos, guacamole and beer, I decide, in that moment, to eat my way through San Francisco. My first taste of what can only be described as the epitome of San Fran came after driving up a steep road in Knob Hill and drop down towards the bay at golden hour. The light hit the sail boats and they glow as the fog settles in the air. Simply beautiful. Next, Fog City for a delicious dinner - hello local oysters and ahi tuna, and better yet? Delicious cocktails.  We had to seek out Humphrey Slocombe in The Mission for the most creative ice cream flavours I have ever heard of - I mean,  Secret Breakfast? Corn flakes and Bourbon? Nailed it.

DAY 2:  Wake up and head to the Farmer's Market at the Ferry Building. We are overwhelmed by the smell of fruits and veggies, flowers and best of all - lavender.  We stop into Blue Bottle Coffee for a quick caffeine fix and a breakfast made up of tasters of cheese at Cowgirl Creamery and meats at Boccalone - highlight: fennel salami - and all the other tasty treats on offer.  After, we head out to Napa Valley - stopping at The Buckeye Roadhouse for pulled pork and wedge salad - to stay with friends in their stunning home set to the breathtaking backdrop of wine country. As I write this, I can't stop thinking about how lucky I am to have a Dad who loves me and spoils me the way that mine does. Lucky right?! We head to Tra Vigne for dinner and order Mozzarella "al minute" - fresh mozzarella made to order - arrancini, organic lettuces salad and tuna pasta with black noodles accompanied by rare glasses of Châteauneuf wines. Unbelievable. This is the dreamiest patio I have ever seen.


DAY 3:  We take an early morning hot air balloon ride over Napa valley. Soaking in the most breathtaking views as we sail through the sky. This is my thank you gift to my dad for our time away together. I was hoping it would be special and was I ever right!  For dinner we went to Mustard's Grill, the quintessential California grill.



DAY 4:  We spend the day going to vineyards in the area. Mondavi is just gorgeous. Every aspect has been thought about in regards to aesthetics. We go to Robert Sinsky and try a Pinot noir rose. Next, Silverado, where we are offered their tasting fleet and a host of tasty rare extras. At Oxbow Market we eat delicious tacos and black beans and then onto the next incredible tasting fleet with Arthur at Napa Valley Distillery. Vodka made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, limited edition plum brandy aged for 15 years, probably the best gin I have ever had, and on, and on....we stumble home to a gourmet home cooked meal. Spoiled.


DAY 5:  Driving out of Napa is bittersweet - but we couldn't miss a visit to the spectacular Muir Woods. The trees are ancient and huge. So much life! We have dinner at the Slanted Door - which had JUST received the James Beard award for outstanding restaurant in the country.  The menu is creative and delicious, the service is terrible. Honourable mentions: Ban nahm - interesting and incredible. The huge and local scallops were outstanding. The biggest most flavourful sugar snap peas I have ever tasted.

DAY 6:  Driving down the coast towards Big Sur is breathtaking. Stunning Cliff Sides, ocean roads, feet in the sand, incredible wealth along 17 Mile Drive. Beautiful lunch at Nepenthe. Dinner at Delfina is incredible - amazing service, delicious food, and noteworthy wine. Erica, our adorable waitress, is super friendly and knowledgeable. I have instant order envy when the most incredible calamari I have ever tasted arrives at our table in front of my dad with white beans so good we asked for the recipe. My choice of duck ragu homemade pasta made up for my bad starter order. And luckily we have a salmon poke bite that filled my seafood void.


DAY 7:  The only cloudy day and we are visiting Alcatraz. I am fascinated. It's crazy to think about life in prison on an island with a front row view of such an active, lively city. We hesitantly cancelled our reservations for Barbocco, due to a week of gluttony and opt for a light sushi dinner followed by an ETB (early to bed).  Side note: This was the day we were meant to check out the Tanner Household, but when I looked up the address and I saw it had been painted, we chose not to go - childhood dreams must remain as they are.


DAY 8:  We decide to join the rest of the city and bike the Golden Gate Bridge. It is challenging and remarkable. We ride down the hill and land in Sausalito for lunch on the water at a crab shack. Back to the city to freshen up for our 7 course tasting at Sons and Daughters. To say the service is perfection would be an understatement. The food is so thoughtfully created with local produce and game. The vegetables, fruits and herbs all come from their own garden - prepared with so much thought and attention. They are consumed that way as well. Cassandra, Nathan and Amy make sure we are well taken care of.


Packing up to leave is always sad. This week has been unforgettable, educational, gastronomic, and much needed. The best part? Spending QT with my amazing Father in what is now, not only his favourite city, but may be one of mine as well.
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Missed Opportunity: the Food Truck Festival every Friday at the Fort Mason Centre. If I was in SF for another Friday you better believe this is where you would find me. We biked amongst the trucks as they were getting set up and I would have loved to have tasted many morsels from these mobile cuisine machines. Oh well, next time… 
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About lindsbanban 
Linds lives in Toronto. She is a daughter, friend, sister, lover, and magic maker with a deep appreciation for local food, delicious wine and anything that encourages dancing. When she is not busy planning events, she can most likely be found somewhere in Trinity Bellwoods; drinking coffee; nuzzled into a good book; or here - as a featured writer for savageOM. 

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